Why :        Tuesday Dinner
Where :     Daan District, Taipei
When :     14th April 2020 (sat down at 1945)

It’s Take Two* – I’d been turned away from here (rather brusquely) on Saturday night and turfed out into the rain. GGG makes a thing of never booking – “don’t you know who I am ?” (I never say), but I am usually successful at getting what I want. 

Even though my feathers were ruffled, there was just something nagging at me to actually break the habit of a lifetime and book a table. So, after a gentle 15 minute Uber ride from the office I’m back at DiVino. It’s on a very typical Taipei street – surrounded by other restaurants, and no offence intended it just doesn’t shout “FINE DINING” at you. But as I go in, I can see once again it’s full inside and out.

I’d actually missed the booking confirmation call a couple of hours earlier. But I called them back and obediently let them know I was still coming. I can see all the tables are full, so I take a seat at the bar (space for 4, and 2 diners are already sat there) as I’m early. When I’m given a menu and offered still or sparkling (it turns out to be San Pellegrino) and advised they just don’t have a table for me – I’m thinking oh no, it’s going to be one of those nights . . . and it is. 

I quickly realise that being sat at the bar is like being at the Chef’s table, I can watch the team cooking at just about safe social distance from me. There’s a great buzz about the place – two of the chefs are Italian and the other from Taiwan – service is totally informal and extremely rapid. 

The menu is short and changes weekly : 5 x antipasti, 3 x primi, 4 x secondi and basically I want to eat everything. Not many GGG reviews have been accompanied (although two previous Italian restaurants have been) once again I wish I had someone to share all the dishes with. 

I decide to just order whatever I fancy and run further than usual in the morning. I choose the DiVino meatballs, a Charcuterie plate with salad and the Pasta alla Boscaiola. The pasta is made fresh every day and it’s on the bar right in front of me. As you can imagine from the name, DiVino is also about the wine – so I also order a glass of red to go with.  

Fresh Focaccia cubes have already arrived (did someone let them know of my weakness for these ?) and then almost immediately the meatballs are here. As soon as I taste I know I’m in trouble. There are 5 larger than a golf ball balls, in a quite incredible tomato sauce. The wine is poured and I’m getting carried away already. 

Around me there’s the chatter of the other diners and the laughter between the chefs – this is the sort of place I like to eat. I exercise extreme self-restraint and pause after three meatballs – there’s a lot of food to come. 

After a few minutes pause, the charcuterie and salad arrives – I can’t count how many different meats are on there. Does anyone remember my recent references to considering vegetarianism ? Ahem . . . . not tonight, because I can see the amazing steaks being prepped in the kitchen too. I just about complete the salad, but can’t manage all of the salami, bresaola etc – definitely a dish to share. 

I’m chatting with Enrico the Chef / Proprietor by now. He’s from Rome, a Juventus fan, been in Taipei for 4 years and now has three restaurants. He actually trained at Le Manoir aux Quat'Saisons in the UK – which impressed me, but it wasn’t his dream. And now here he is filling his restaurant with ease 5 times per week with two sittings. 

Most of the other diners are sharing, but I’m all in as the pasta arrives. It’s covered in pangrattato which I love, but didn’t know it’s known as poor person’s Parmesan, anyway like the pasta it’s completely amazing. 

Second glass of red time and I’m in full swing. Feels like I’m in an extreme version of St Albans’ Cosa Nostra, with better food and slightly less attitude. I manage just over half and need to pause. The restaurant is starting to empty now, and I’m wondering where does everyone go after 9pm in Taipei ? 

I manage to wait a whole 5 minutes before I give in to the chocolate mousse. There’s some kind of pecan nut topping magic going on and I’ve totally lost the power to resist. I love chocolate mousse and this is the best I’ve ever had. 

I manage a couple of Espressos just before the bill – handled with ease in 2 minutes 24 seconds. NT$2,464 (£65.20) for enough for two people represents exceptional value for food and an experience as good as this. Without doubt this is the best dining experience I have had so far in Taipei – the food is incredible, but DiVino is so much more than that.

Would I recommend ?    Yes

Will I return ?    Yes – I’ve already booked again for my birthday

*Take Two – I pride myself on being open-minded and open to new experiences. But even I was digging deep when I swallowed my pride and returned to DiVino with a booking. Having eaten so much food in Paris I’ve been spoken down to so many times while eating out. I persevered and was rewarded with an incredible experience : food, service, atmosphere. This is the type of place where I want to eat, and to think I nearly missed out. Are you prepared to dig deep and try somewhere that doesn’t make a perfect first impression ? Answers on a DM 

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About Gareth the Globetrotting Gourmet:

Gareth is a British Marketing Professional who travels extensively for his work, having lived and worked across Europe, the Middle East, Brazil and now Taiwan. He “has" to eat three meals per day and loves telling stories about his experiences while doing so - occasionally he even mentions the food! Follow him on Instagram: http://www.instagram.com/garethabel