Why :        Sunday Lunch
Where :     Nangang District, Taipei
When :     10th May 2020 (sat down at 1200)

Finally. Finally, GGG reviews a proper BBQ joint (my favourite type of food) and I get to Bogart’s Smokehouse when it’s open. A previous planned trip was thwarted at the last minute when I turned up to find the restaurant closed – when it would normally be open. Very strange I thought – and further research* helped me to understand what had happened, and made me want to visit even more. It’s 20 minutes on the MRT and a 10 minute walk in 33C with humidity and I arrive at Bogart’s slightly relieved it’s open. I’m taking today very seriously : (i)   I’m accompanied so we can go to town on the menu (ii)   I went vegetarian yesterday – as today’s going to be all about the meat, and (iii)   I’ve done an early run to make sure I’m as hungry as possible.

Through the sliding door 30 minutes after opening, I find the smallish dining area already fairly full, a line of people waiting to order and the most amazing Smokehouse aroma. My mouth is watering. My partner in crime (PiC) arrives, and we immediately agree that we should order everything available – in the interests of thorough research. This surprises them at the till, but I stifle my impatience as I realise that we can actually get all five side orders included with the meat. Result. Our order is as follows :

Mains                   
Full rack of ribs (1)
Burnt Ends (2)
½ Roast Chicken (3)
Pulled Pork (4)
Brisket (5)

Sides
Pit beans (1)
Fire Ice pickles (2)
Potato salad (3)
Mac n Cheese (4)
Slaw (5)

I’m glad we’ve gone early, as we learn they only have 2 servings of Burnt Ends left. In addition to a pretty full restaurant, Bogart’s is doing a “roaring” takeaway trade. Service is extremely rapid, - with the food arriving swiftly on metal trays more quickly than I can photograph it. Team Gram’s  older siblings on the next table are getting very excited about the volume of food being delivered to us. I actually haven’t got room for my notebook. On each table there are 6 different sauces which I’d grade from fruity – OMFC ! A great way to add to your food. It’s time to give it all a try, but where to start ?

In a nod to my trying to be sensible with my diet, I start on the slaw and quickly move on to the Fire Ice pickles which is an excellent name – exactly what you would imagine. Then a couple of forkfuls of Pit beans (outstanding – the numbers above are my favourite to least favourite items) before I finally dig into the meat. Burnt Ends first – what a triumph, I’m so glad not to miss out on these. Then it’s the pulled pork which is served “unsauced”, so you can enhance it however you wish. Next up is the Brisket – served fairly thinly sliced, well seasoned but personally I prefer my own which is juicier and thicker – admittedly I can’t get the smoke ring effect on the meat. 

But we’ve waited long enough – after some build up and circling it’s Ribs time. Conveniently the full rack has come as two halves. I won’t mess about – they’re incredible. I adore Ribs and these are as good as I’ve ever had. I stop talking for a bit – and start shaking my head in disbelief. Regular readers will know my mantra is “No Food is a Sin, just don’t eat it all” but there’s no way I’m leaving any of these. A quick pause to test the Mac n Cheese and Potato Salad (both very decent) and it’s back to the Ribs. 

The half roast chicken (our only real token gesture to ordering sensibly – we could have had a whole one) – also needs sampling. It’s very good of course, but I can’t get past the Ribs and Burnt Ends. The owner comes over to check how we’re doing, and I catch my breath asking him a little about the restaurant and set up. Hunter is keen to tell us the story and I’m loving his description of the décor he went for : “Southern Dining Room hit by a Tornado”. A few minutes later at just 1240, we hear the message at the counter that they have sold out of Ribs. Wow, I can see everyone else is having them too – but these guys need a bigger smoker !

By now I’m in all sorts of meat-based trouble. I’m very full and really don’t feel like moving. I have finished the Ribs, but the sides have only been tested. I’m realising that dinner won’t be required this evening – but I’m delighted to see that my PiC has made an astonishingly good effort on his side of the table, and it looks like we have made a respectable attempt at eating our way through the menu. A final Burnt End and a few pickles and that’s it I am done. At this point a group of Middle Aged Men in Lycra (who clearly look to take their cycling very seriously) come in. I’m highly amused at this – how on earth will they be able to get back on their bikes after dining here ? Perhaps they live very locally and can roll home afterwards. 

After an hour, we call it a day. This has been an exceptional dining experience, great to try so many dishes of such high quality, served with such skill and enthusiasm. Food snobs don’t tend to appreciate the skill in this type of cuisine – but I do. Just like the burgers at Man Cave Gourmet Burgers, where Roger creates like a top end sushi chef, the BBQ at Bogart’s Smokehouse is truly exceptional and they deserve their long lines of loyal customers. 

The bill is NT$2,750 (£74) which is good value for a lot of high quality food that easily could have fed 4. But beyond the food itself – the experience of making it to this corner of Taipei on the weekend, queuing in line and chatting with the owner made it very worthwhile. 

Would I recommend ?    Yes – fantastic for a Group of you

Will I return ?    Yes 

*Further Research. After missing out the first time, we learned that Bogart’s posts slightly cryptic messages on their Facebook page when they’re selling out of food and will need to close soon. They operate like a bakery, and as a result their official opening hours are a guide only. Although I was very frustrated the first time, when I discovered this I just wanted to go even more. What’s your take ? Do you like this style or would it disappoint you so you’d try somewhere else ? Answer on a DM please.

Have you read?
♦ DiVino: perfect Italian dinner
♦ Saffron 46: Delicate Indian Cuisine
♦ Galerie Bistro: lamb shank heaven

About Gareth the Globetrotting Gourmet:

Gareth is a British Marketing Professional who travels extensively for his work, having lived and worked across Europe, the Middle East, Brazil and now Taiwan. He “has" to eat three meals per day and loves telling stories about his experiences while doing so - occasionally he even mentions the food! Follow him on Instagram: http://www.instagram.com/garethabel